WC Innsbruck (Warning: long text, written mostly for myself)

Halla bloggæn
Ida ha je baje så mye på jerte, så mange følelseej lizzaam...

Neida, bare kjeder meg i Innsbruck. Alene. På et hotell. Nedenfor er bare babbel om konken, altså bare for spesielt intreserte, ev. folk som kjede sg på jobb/skole ;)

igjen....har hatt mye fritid i d siste...

So my third world cup and last before the summer break is over. It will be 2 wc coming that I wont attend, in Canada and USA, and then in end of august the last wc of the year will be held in Munich, and that one I`ll probobly attend.

Compared to when I competed earlier I now struggle much more to get into the semi´s, coming in in one of the last places. Not that I am in worse shape now then back in 2009, but I tend to get more nervous now. And hesitating. I have also done a lot of reading mistakes, like a newbie.

So we started on friday afternoon, men starting first as almost always (I am glad). I still felt a bit strange in my body (have a little cold), but this time I felt alot better when warming up (compared to last comp).   Because of the rain we only had 4 (instead of the normal 5) problems in the qualifiers. One less chance to prove our earn to the semis. But also one less boulder to mess up on.
I had a really bad quali´s. I flashed the 1 problem, which was good (a slab). On the 2.problem I got up to the hold before the tophold on my first attempt. Unfortinutly there was the hesitation. I hesitated, trying to safe the move, using forever, not doing the right ting, fell of. I decided to just have one more try, with a new beta in mind....that didnt work out..On the 3 problem I didnt understand anything, didnt get the bonus or anything. The 4.th and last problem enoyed me a bit. It was one hard move, a dynoísh move, the rest after seemed easy, but I couldnt get there. I knew my chances for semis where slim. Watching the others in the end where nervewracking (turned out I kinda liked the excitement), cause it turned out I might have a chance. And I got in on the last spot. Pjhuuu.... :)

As the one with the worst result from quallis I started first climbing in the semis. Which I kinda like, less time in isolation, and it can only get better. Again came the reading faults and hesitation. I did the first boulder in 4th. attempt, should have in 2. Atleast third. The second boulder, I had a little slip, and also a little (but not too bad) reading mistake, but made it in 2. try. My highpoint of the comp. was the third problem. My proudest flash in my life. Reading it, I thought I never would be able to do it at all, and I thought I would have to catch (mum, that means jump). When I started climbing I dont know what happened, everything just moved, like someone else was doing the moves for me, and I managed to do the boulder, static. Last boulder I wont write about. Nothing to say really, as I didnt get far. Really enjoyed this semi, but know even if the number of the result, 7th, is good, I still have a lot to work on, much of it mental skills.

 1.problem in semis. 

 3.problem in semis.

 Trying a little desperate beta on the 4th boulder.

I have been here in Innsbruck since last monday, over a week. I have seen most of the city, been studying, and training. The last couple of days have been a bit hard, long since I have been so homesick, but tomorrow thing will be better as I will go to Germany on a Adidas meeting/event and have fun! 

suss og smask, kozz og klemzz, takk for dere som gidde å leze. 

therese

Log dragomer!

It is not every weekend I get to travel to a "new country" and luckily I got to see a little bit more then the hotel and the competition arena. The city Ljubljana was really nice. 

Over to the climbing:

The first day was one of the worst qualifiers I´ve ever had. It and I did not feel at the top of my game at all, I couldnt pull properly. Luckily I managed to flash 2 problems and got through as the last one making the semis. 

Before warming up for the semis I felt a bit better, I stretched a lot, as my back was really sore, but when I started to warm up I had the same feeling like yesterday, and my expectations were rather low. Luckily I managed to climb a bit better then I thought I will, and managed 2 boulders, and was really happy to end up in 11th. After the semis we went to eat in great Ljubljana, but we were too tired to go watch the comp, I feet like I´ve been hit by a bus or something, so watching it from the bed was much more comftertable:) Really impressed with Anna taking her 4th. straight victory, well done!!

The hotel we´re staying in

Anja´s fit for fight

tourists

Art

street art

My very important flash in quallis, would be out if I fell once..

My 1. boulders in the semis. Glad I did it, not usually the best on these kind of boulders.

 Last boulder in semis. Really happy I did this one. I suck at catching, and thought the end was hard and tricky!

 Really happy with the organization of this comp. with shuttlebus from the hotel to the gym, routsetting and everything! really well done!

Tomorrow, Anja and I will go to Innsbruck, to train/rest/work (Anja)/study (me)/ and be tourists and eat lots of ice cream!!!

Watch us next weekend in Innsbruck!:)

Therese

WC Kitzbuhel!

Alright, long time no see! I am starting blogging again. Have done alot of bouldering lately, and alot has happend, though except from some pictures i´m not gonna write about anything other then the WC;)

So, last weekend was my first whord cup since 2009. I have done some comps since that, but mostly nationals + the adidas comps. As I skipped the first wc in europe due to economical prioritys, my first wc where in Kitzbuhel, a nice little city in Austria. This time we even where two from Norway, me and Tina. I also travelled with the strong swede Anja Hoddan.

Qualifications day at friday started really nice, as we were not climbing until the afternoon. I am glad the girls usually get to climb late, as I´m not to fan of early climbing. It where two groups in the quallis, which I normally dosnt like. Feels so much harder to get to semis that way, I know its probably not the case, but 10. each group seem so hard. This time I was quite nervous before quallis, before I used to be nervous only in the semis.

Turned out I got in the group with easy(er) boulders, and we had to do alot of boulders to pass through. Luckely I did all 5, and moved on.

In the day of the semifinal I felt really good. I wasnt tired, nervous, or anything but ready. Turned out it wasnt my day, or boulders. I could and should have done 2 more boulders, but failed trying to safe. But sometimes thats just the way it is. Hopefully I learned something from it - dont safe too much! it isn't safe.. But I enyojed climbing, it was very fun!

I ended up on 15th. I dont care about the number, but I am a bit enoyed with my performance. But I guess that it´ll always be something to pick on, but thats the way to get better, right? Looking forward to new chances, and in already less then one week I´ll travel to Slovenia for my second wc this year. Fingers crossed:D

 Ready for filming for Tierra boulder battle backstage. What a fun competition that was!

 Did Hugin in Oltedal, cool boulder!

Got a hair cut in Kitbuhel, short!

Managed to do sucker punch, 7C+/8A as well:) steep on crimps, cant ask for more. (topped on jug due to snow and ice)

rain means train, getcha poll!!

Norgescup Trondheim

I helga som var var d norgescup i Trondheim, min første konkurranse for i år. Eg va veldig gla for at eg fikk deltatt i herreklassen, selv om d ikkje va min beste konkurranse. Prioriterte litt feil bulder, å hadde ikkje dagen, men god trening var d, og veldig kjekt. Angre ikkje på at eg stilte i herreklassen selv om eg ikje kom t finalen, for d va utrolig bra trening. E aldri helt god på den type konkurranse som kvalikken e, foretrekke egentli at d e sånn som d e i verdenscuper, 5 min på, 5 min av, så slippe man å måtte prioritere.
Men bulderne va tøffe, og eg fekk peikt ut endel svakheter. Utrolig missunnelig på hallen de har i Trondheim nå, fete vegger! Men hekkan så gangsperr eg hadde i beina etterpå, så vidt eg kunne gå i 2 dager etterpå. Høge vegger, men når man får tak på veggene kan man jaffal buldre ned når man topper noe.
Skulle egentlig prøve finalebulderne t herrene og damene dagen etterpå, men hadde sykt gangsperr i låra, men rakk en halvtime. Skulle gjerne vært lengre. Kjekt å se at det var så mange gira juniorer på vei opp, og bra at d e kommet norgescup i buldring også for juniorer. Det vet eg eg savna på deres alder:)

Under en måned t min første verdenscup nå, så e ganske spent. Selv om d ikkje jekk så bra i helga, følte eg at eg ikkje fekk heilt svar på ka form eg e i. Kan være i god form selv om bulderne ikje passa, så får krysse fingrene på d.  Etter verdenscupen sga eg trene etpar dager i Oslo før d helga etter e ein invitasjonskonkurranse i Stockholm eg glede mg veldig t :
http://www.facebook.com/events/438064516246654/?fref=ts
I april og mai går d egentlig i ett. eg sga bare være me i de i Europa, så for min del e den første delen av konkurransesesongen ferdig i midten av mai. Da sga eg ha vært me på 4 WC. Blir spennende, håpe eg klare å fortsette der eg slapp i 2009, men e så mange sterke damer nå!

Therress

Besøk!

Fått endel dager ute i d siste, være e supert, og får tilogmed start på bilen:D I helga hadde vi besøk av King og Kenneth fra Oslo, veldig gira folk;) Var å fikk meg et nytt prosjekt i Oltedal på Torsdag, som Tore nylig gikk, Brutus. Vi klarte ikke toppen så bra, prøvde strengt tatt ikje så mye heller. Suger i hælkroking, så både eg og Torstein blir t å toppe ut mot høyre. Sykt kul start på dette bulderet, med endel forskjellige betaer. Har enda ikkje fått t førsteflytte, og andre flytte e hardt, før d roe sg litt med mulighet for en heartbreaker på toppen.

 Eg tåhooke her, Torstein heelhooke på samme, og Jarle og Tore tåhooker mye lenger t venstre..

 På Lørdag og Søndag var me ute me King og Kenneth. Lørdag i Oltedal og Søndag på Stavtjørn. I Oltedal starta me på Fragleberget, før me jekk videre t Essensen, Oljehorå, Brutus, også prøvde gutta på Rule of Thumb. Torstein imponerte me å rykka t Oljehorå på den skikkelige måten. Følte selv at eg va nærmere denne måten nå enn før (har bare gått den me ein teit krimpebeta).

 King på Essensen

 Kenneth rykke t

 Eg fekk repetert etter ett eller 2 fall på sisteflytte

 Torstein på Oljehorå

Søndag dro me t Stavtjørn. Endel snø på toppen av steinene, så de fleste bulderne kunne ikje toppes ut, men d meste va buldrebart (bortsett fra Sorgfri utpå ettermidagen). Eg blei kanongira på Skyggespill. Har ikje vært så gira på den før, fordi Jarle sin beta virka håpløs, mens Martins får man vondt ved sia av håndleddet av (ve for mange forsøk)..Men nå fant eg ny å bedre beta her, og alt virke mer lovende. Kult og brutalt bulder. Deffinitivt nytt prosjekt!

 Lasse på Skyggespill

 Kenneth på samme

 smil t kamera

Kenneth gikk like gjerne Automagisk på slutten av dagen, fin avlutning på turen d:) 

De siste 3 dagene har eg fått 3 "nye" prosjekter: Brutus(høyre topp), skyggespill og automagisk. VENGA. Where to go imårå? Hadde i utgangspunkte tenkt Oltis, men e også veldig gira på Stavtjørn

Sirevåg

 Blei en tur t Sirevåg på lørdag. Va utrolig digg å komme sg ut i sola og på stein:) hadde tenkt å gå på buldere t Tore ved siden av Chicken wings, men etter oppvarminga på Lula og Den nakne og havet fant eg ut at eg va for sliten, og at me ville spare hula/grotten/skyggen t varmere dager, så me jekk t 2012 etterpå. Eg jekk den i 2 eller 3 forsøk, ikje et stjernebulder, men uansett kjekt å gå noe nytt. meldt bra igjen t neste helg då:) håpe å få fiksa bilen t då!

Therress

2013!

New year, new possibilities:)

I ended the year with a climbing trip to Spain before christmas, as I often do. Think it´s nice to let body and mind rest from bouldering once a year, and I prefer doing it climbing instead of slacking;) I went to visit my friends Hannah and Henning who rent a house in Santa Linya, also some other friends where there, or came during our time there, so the house was full, which I really liked:)

I have never enjoyed sportclimbing as much as I did this trip. Its not that I had gotten better endurance then before or anything like that, but I think it was because I wasnt so scared anymore. I could focus more on the climbing, instead of thinking where the next and last clip was. I focused on doing routes I could do in not too many tries, but I also had some tries on Rollito Sharma, 8b+, which was really cool. I could do all the moves, but endurance to baaad, so I gave it up pretty quick;) We had to get home for christmas this year, and both me and Torstein wanted to stay longer. It was so nice and chill in Spain. But well, now it is bouldering for all my money!!:D

pictures where only taken the first day.... :P So much easier to take good bouldering pictures

2013
I have decided to join the national team this year, as I also enjoy competing. I think I will do all the world cups in Europe + the national ones and nordic. With other things planned as well, it is going to be a hectic and exiting year. Training is on, and I am psyked!

Therese